An Ethnographic Journal about the Bryan Salsa Dancing Scene
Not just like the movies
When Kim, Matt, and Amanda said that they would be doing salsa dancing for their ethnography, I thought "well, that does not sound like the thing for me." My original intention had been to visit Halo, the gay bar in downtown Bryan. I had never been there, primarily because of how far removed from my usual bar scene it is, and I had heard many things about it. However, the group for Halo seemed to dwindle in size, as people exchanged their Halo idea for something apparently more desirable. Being left in a group with two other guys, I decided that our group had fallen below critical mass, so I transferred myself into the salsa group, which had a total of four members after I joined them. As I indicated before, salsa dancing is not something I had ever done, and only maybe secretly wanted to try it. This is how I knew it would be perfect for an ethnography.
All of our preliminary research came from the website for the venue, www.thevillagedowntown.com. According to the website, the only times they do salsa dancing are 8:00pm to 12:00am on Wednesdays and 10:00pm to 2:00am on Saturdays. Because we need to spend ten hours with the group, it was necessary for us to go three of the four meetings before the deadline of this journal. Because Matt and I had separate prior engagements from the group, Kim and Amanda went to the first meeting on Saturday. I thought that a salsa club would have a fairly nice dress code, like black shoes, dress pants, and a jacket, like you would see in the movies. But the picture on the website shows the majority of the people wearing pants, tennis shoes and a t-shirt. Relieved, I opted to wear just that.
This is the night of my first visit to the salsa club. Along with a second glance at the website, I took a look at the ethnography guidelines for this project to see exactly what I needed to write. I see that this isn't supposed to be a report, but just a collection of notes, so the prose form I used above is needless and an excessive amount of work.
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I arrived at 8:00 on a cold Wednesday night. Parking was free, but parallel, like many spots in old downtown areas. Surprisingly few parking spots for a Wednesday night, there were probably 15 full spots that were closer than the one that I chose.
The doorman was a big black guy sitting on a bar stool. Felt just like Bryan. However, when the doorman greeted, he had a surprisingly effeminate tone. The perfect mixture of downtown Bryan and a dance club. Cover was $8.00, and $5.00 if I were to come after the dance lesson, after 10:00. After paying cover, the doorman presented me with a sort of member's card with one stamp printed on it. He informed me that if I bring this card into the club eight times, my ninth visit would be cover free. Of course, I had no intention of visiting this many times, but I took it, just in case.
The building was about 30' wide and 100' long, with hardwood flooring everywhere. The actual dance area is closer to 15' x 50'. Strange paintings covered the walls, all for sale too. I've seen those style paintings in a Mexican restaurant.
A total of four couches lined two corners, three tables ran along one of the walls by one of the sets of couches. On the wall opposite of the couches was a bar, which also served other beverages/food items. The alcoholic beverages served are beer - $2.50-4.00, wine - $5.50, & sangria - $3.50. It is apparent from the "localize" signs around the bar that they are in favor of local business, probably because they are one.
At 8:05, when I walked through the door, there were maybe 7 other people who wanted dance lessons. Five of those people were there for school reasons, such as CSCE 436, or some other class. We sat around and talked until about 8:30, when the dance instructor, Chris, told us to form a loose circle in the middle of the dance floor. He said he wanted to teach us to salsa faster than any of his past classes. I didn't want this, I'm trying to take up time!
He certainly got into the actual dancing quickly, there was no speech about salsa, or even a demonstration of it; he just told us to form pairs with a dance partner of the opposite sex.
After everyone paired up, i was surprised to find that there were actually more males at the lesson than females. This concerned me at first, but I eventually realized that this meant less actual dancing for me, since we had to then rotate partners.
He told the guys to hold out their hands, and the girls to take them. He told us how the hand should be held, but I later found that the more experienced people rarely followed his form. His teaching style consisted of showing us the move once or twice, having us try for a few minutes to mimic that move with our dance partner without the music playing, and then practicing the move with salsa music.
I had never danced salsa in my life, nor had I really paid attention when people did it in the movies or at other clubs I'd been to, but this is my quick breakdown of what he told us to do:
The lead takes a step forward with his left foot.
It seemed like Chris told us to return the left foot to its original position, but when I watched people dance, the left foot looks to be half a step behind where it originally was. I eventually made this change to my own style, but at first, I was just trying to get the steps down.
Next, the leader's right foot is brought back a step, and then returned to its original position.
During this, the follower matches the leader's steps, but with the opposite foot.
Chris didn't tell us this, but something should be done with the arms, such as rotating them while holding his partner, kind of like an egg beater. I don't know how to explain the motion.
I learned later in the night, that Chris' guidelines could not be followed too rigidly. I found out while researching the dance at home that there are several different styles of salsa. I saw people at the club moving side to side, or in a strange diagonal pattern.
Of course, there is more to it than this, otherwise it would be extremely boring. The leader can spin his partner, or he can spin himself, and a multitude of other different steps can be performed, seemingly at the whim of the leader. He just has to make his intention clear, usually through some sort of subtle hand signal that the follower has to look out for.
Because we were continuously swapping partners every few minutes, I inevitably had to dance with every girl there. Because of the great ethnographer I am, and also because it would have been awkward otherwise, I talked to my dance partners...About half of them had never danced before. Maybe 40% had danced a few times, but still didn't consider themselves great at it. And then the rest obviously had done it before, for several years. The vast majority of them were college students, but there were a few who looked to be in their late 20's and a few who looked like they were closer to 40. I'm mad that I didn't ask very many people what their major was, since I felt like that was a cliche conversation topic, but at the time, I never considered how demographically useful that information would be. All I remember is that one of the guys there was a chemical engineering major, and one of the girls was an English major.
During this lesson, people continued to arrive until there was hardly any room to make a mistake. By the end of the lesson, there were probably 50 people, some of which
clearly already knew how to salsa. A few of them were clearly regulars and already knew Chris. At about 10:00, Chris announced the lessons over, and gave everyone free reign of the dance floor. At this point, they turned off the overhead lights, and the only light sources consisted of lasers with a single light by the dj's table, and one by the front entrance.
Eager to take a break from dancing so that we could better take in the details of the club, our ethnography group sat down at a table. Free water was dispensed from a water cooler between the dance floor and the bar, but Matt and I bought a beer; being completely sober in a club doesn't feel right to me.
After cover dropped at $5.00, people started to come in at a more regular rate. After 10:00, The Village becomes just like any other dance club. Groups of friends would arrive at the club and claim their own sitting/leaning space. They would talk or dance in their group, relatively socially isolated from the rest of the people in the club. Occasionally, one of their men would leave the group to dance with a girl, or a guy would come to ask one of the girls in the group to dance. After the song, they would return to their default state.
It was very hot in the club. I would step outside on several occasions to cool off, usually after dancing with someone. Matt and I spoke to another guy while outside the club, who revealed that he enjoyed salsa dancing because of the number of cute girls that visit the club. He wasn't wrong about that either.
Actually, it was interesting to me that the appearance of girls at the club ranged from average to beautiful, while the range of guys who visited the club pretty much covered the entire spectrum, aesthetically speaking. While I only spoke to one male regular, the females who visited the club claimed that they did it for fun. Whether or not this is fully honest is unclear, but there's a catch-22 in finding why people come to the club. I don't have as many opportunities to talk to the guys at the club, who are more likely to be honest with someone of the same gender (we understand each other, plus he doesn't have to try to impress us). Conversely, I spoke to perhaps dozens of women over the course of this ethnography, but they probably felt it would be inappropriate to say that they want to dance with attractive men.
As it grew closer to 12:00am (closing time one Wednesdays), the crowd began to thin out, but not by much. At midnight, they turned on the lights, and played "We are Young", a song that did not at all match the latin-based setlist they had been using all night. Of course, this is a common tactic in clubs to indicate that people need to get out. The Village is a nice sandwich/coffee shop during the day, so the doorman began moving tables from the back and arranging them in the fashion you would expect for a restaurant.
New patrons of the club would leave with their friends, maybe wave goodbye to any new friends they might had made that night. The regulars said goodbye to others, often hugging and then going their separate ways, sometimes alone.
I spoke to Chris afterward, and he told me that this is a pretty typical representation of a Wednesday night. (He also says hi, Dr. Hammond)
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I showed up again the next Saturday, but this time, Amanda was the only other ethnographer who was able to make it. Saturday is a more proper night to visit the club scene, so I anticipated a much larger group.
On weekends, the club opens at 10:00pm and stays open until 2am, with a brief 30 minute lesson at the beginning. I presented him with my members card, and paid cover, which was only five dollars this time, for reasons that became immediately apparent upon entering.
This lesson was much more succinct, and Chris covered far fewer dance moves than he had the previous night. I was quite thankful that I had gone to the Wednesday class first, or this could have been a very embarrassing night for me.
Already, the crowd was much larger, perhaps 20 people were present, and only two of us were there for school reasons, as far as I knew. There were a small handful of people that I recognized from the Wednesday class, excluding employees of the club. These were the people who had done salsa before, so I'm sure that they are regulars to the club. But the majority of the people there I had never seen before.
I would estimate that about 150 people showed up during the night.
In addition to salsa, people danced merengue, they two stepped, and at one point, there was a dance circle where people would just jump in and do whatever moves they could improvise, solo.
I spoke to the doorman while cooling off outside. I had been calling him a bouncer in my paper up to this point, but he told me that his title was that of a doorman. His job seemed to consist of admitting guests and taking their money, and moving tables for the next day. He didn't personally know how to Salsa, I guess because he is stuck at the door instead of actually dancing. I hadn't actually prepared a list of questions for him, otherwise, I would have asked how long he had been doing this, and what his roles are in full.
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In many ways, Saturday's are just like Wednesdays, only it becomes more of a regular club on the weekends. There are no rules dictating that people have to dance salsa at the club, it is merely suggested by the selection of music that they play. There are a handful of regular attendees, but for the most part t is just like any other club. People might attend this club every once in a while, simply because they want to go to clubs, but there is a limited selection, and they want to alternate between them. Then there are people who have never done it before, who are interested in trying salsa, just for fun.